You don’t have to be a ‘fashionista’ to have a piece/s of Kimono–suspended in gentle repose, on a rod in the quiet corners of your wardrobe. Its loose fit–a combination of style and comfort, coupled with protean powers (adapted to casual and formal settings), seamlessly make the attire a must-have.
To Sakorn however, the garment’s T-shaped silhouette–wide sleeves and elaborate patterns, are a woven testament to the moments lived and those yet to be discovered.
Born in a Dutch Thai family, Sakorn Somboon, also known as Ensō struggled to ‘fit’. In Thailand where he was born, he was considered ‘too big’ to be Thai. The same applied to Holland where he was raised–for he looked more Asian than Dutch.
London, where he mastered his chef craft served a rinse and repeat situation. So did Africa–Ghana and Rwanda in particular. That, coupled with his sterile efforts to find clothes that suit his style while offering comfort, plus a job that hadn’t paid him in months, propelled him to start his own fashion line.
“My company was behind on salary for months. This had me ponder about my future–how I was going to survive, pay rent, among other things. In the process, I traveled to Zanzibar to take some time off,” explained Sakorn.
Enroute, he visited a couple of markets in Dar Es Salaam and Tanzania–‘falling in love’ with the clothing designs and crafts. Although the feeling was ‘not that deep’ to make him buy any souvenirs, nor think of taking up fashion designing as a career. This however changed when he ran into an elderly man at the airport who probed him about his profession.
On informing him that he was a chef, the mysterious man inquired how Sarkon dealt with stress. “I smoke, drink or go out,” he responded. Only to be informed to get a hobby, particularly crafting.
According to Mr. ‘Mystery’, the craft didn’t have to be quintessential–just anything that produced instant results, whilst helping Sakorn to relax in the process.
Crafting the Kimono
Out of six prerequisites required to make a kimono: fabric, dyeing, cutting, assembling, sewing and adding accessories, Sarkon only ticked two (fabric and dyeing) on his return to Rwanda. A number too small to produce the garment. Thus, he consulted friends for assistance.
“I asked a friend if it was possible to get someone to teach me how to sew. The answer was ‘yes’, but at a cost,” Sakorn explained.
He added that despite his willingness to pay for the tailoring lessons, the amount was always too stiff diminishing the ‘excitement’ in learning. This propelled him to make use of the internet (YouTube and Pinterest).
The platforms ‘served’ a manifold of styles to espouse. However, oftentimes, the clips were brisk for Sakorn to keep up–redirecting him to Kimironko market for a one-one session with a ‘professional’ tailor.
Unfortunately, his endeavors were futile–partly because of language barrier and ‘unprofessionalism’ by the tailor.
“I purchased a kitenge fabric and entrusted it to a tailor in Kimironko who had assured me she was skilled at making kimonos. Instead, she handed the fabric to her colleagues to do the work, leaving me unable to observe the process,” he shared.
Nonetheless, he had a Kimono to take home at the end of the day. One that he would later use as a blueprint to make more kimonos.
The Birth of Ensō designs
Ensō fashions made its debut on 1st November 2024 at the ‘Stage Fashion Showcase’, barely three months after its proprietor embarked on his journey of transforming raw textures into wearable art.
According to Sakorn, the exhibition was a great success, despite him having one Kimono line to showcase.
Henceforth, the brand made appearances at different events–including the JABA opening night, where its unique designs and style caught my attention. From the fabric to the models, logo, and presentation. All things top-notch.
In an exclusive interview, Sakorn expounded on what a Kimono is: “Unless there’s a band or a rope/obi (belt), it’s not a kimono.” He further noted that, “The garment originated from China before it spread to Korea and Japan. Even so, each country wears it differently, depending on their culture and material used.”
This absolute mastery of the outfit has enabled Sakorn to meticulously craft apparels that cater for divergent genders, tastes and occasions in a brief span of time.
The store, located at Mundi center, adjacent to Depot 37 is home to all kinds of Kimonos—Yukata (unlined cotton summer kimono worn in casual settings), Cardigan jackets (made with a collar) and Hussions (have hoodies), with more styles like the ‘body armor’ in the pipeline.
These cost between 75,000frw (seventy thousand Rwandan francs) to 400,000frw (four hundred fifty thousand Rwandan francs) a piece. When asked why the price is inflated, Sakorn disclosed that his type of fabric, plus the way he sews the kimono is remarkable.
“My material is a mixture of cotton, wool and silk. Combined, they create a richly unique pattern known as the ‘Kilim’. With a meter priced at 35$ (thirty-five US Dollars), yet I need at least three to make one piece. Not to mention the time and passion invested, I think the pricing is more than fair,” he explained.
He however stressed that the pricing is highly determined by the material used. Garments tailored from Moroccan carpet (100% wool), Ashoka from Nigeria, Pakistan linen, original Kente from Ghana, among others will always cost more than those made with ‘kitenge’ from say Rwanda, Burundi or Congo.
Beyond Kimonos, Ensō fashions craft ninja trousers, shirts, overall coats, shirt-dresses, and everything ‘streetwear’. Now if you’re like me and thought ‘streetwear’ refers to ‘rugged’ wear, you may need to think again.
According to Sakorn, streetwear is all about expression. It’s about striking the balance between comfort and personal branding–how you want people to perceive you.
“For me street wear integrates art, expression and confidence. What makes it streetwear, is that we take an elegant piece, turn it into casual to fit someone’s style,” he stressed.
What makes Ensō fashion stand out
The term “Ensō,” which means “circle” in Japanese, is an important symbol in Zen Buddhism. The Kanji characters that make up the word reflect ideas of unity and interconnectedness. Ensō fashions’ style of streetwear–a blend of Africa and Asia, thus aims to ‘bridge the gap’ between the two continents, says Sakorn.
The brand name, “Ensō,” is a dedication to his firstborn son, Enso Nicolas Somboon, further symbolizing the circle of life and the continuity of heritage. In his own words, “I want everyone to understand that living in harmony without judgment is possible.”
This made in Rwanda brand incorporates movement into fashion to produce ‘fashiotainment’, a cross-culture of expression and movement. When they grace the runway, Ensō models defy the conventional catwalk. Instead, their movements blend fluid walking with rhythmic, dance-like gestures, creating a performance that is both captivating and expressive.
When it comes to the logo, it’s a bold centerpiece. Plastered in oversized typography at the back of each piece, it adds a sense of identity and power to the creation, ensuring that every look command attention both on and off the runway.
Moreover, each piece in the collection is crafted as a one-of-a-kind edition, ensuring exclusivity and individuality of the wearer. This bespoke approach not only highlights the brand’s commitment to innovation but also gives its audience the opportunity to own a wearable piece of art, tailored to stand apart in a sea of repetition.
A firm believer of expression, Sakorn underscores the need for Africans to embrace black heritage, stating that it is enchanting. “Black heritage is truly remarkable! It’s puzzling why some would shy away from it, especially considering that Africa is the cradle of all human evolution,” he remarked.
As for him, he pledged to continue his work of meticulously designing garments with an attention to detail, making each creation a unique masterpiece.
To fellow designers, Sakorn encourages you to foster a spirit of support and collaboration, rather than viewing emerging talents as rivals.
“If you don’t appreciate someone’s craft, it’s better to keep it to yourself, because harsh words can potentially harm their career,” he said. Referencing a tale of three monkeys–one covering its ears, another the eyes, and the third one the mouth. Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil–the modern version of ‘we listen, we don’t judge.
